Creality Official “Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for Ender 3/3 Pro/ 3 V2/ 3 Max/ 3 S1, Satisfy Near-end Printing and High-temperature Printing

Product Information

The Sprite Pro is a Sprite extruder with an integrated all-metal hot end. This allows the Sprite Pro to heat up to 300° C, which enables it to print high-temperature materials such as nylon. In all other respects, the Sprite Pro is the same as the Sprite—there are no changes to the extruder itself. Remove the PTFE coupler from the top of the hot end using the larger side of the wrench. Make sure you have unloaded any filament before this step. You may need to heat the hot end to remove the tubing. I’m nearly up and running, but I keep getting the same error. “Recv: // MCU ‘mcu’ shutdown: Not a valid ADC pin” I copied and used your config file. I do have the F4 board, but have found the proper help to get that part figured out. Any help would be appreciated! The separate extruder means that the print head is lighter, allowing for faster printing and less likelihood of artifacts like "salmon skin" from inertia of the added weight.

Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for Creality Official “Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for

This is what the filament looks like after the idler tension has been adjusted correctly. Much less filament deformation Direct drive extruders are mounted right above the hot end, and push the filament directly into it. This requires that the extruder moves along with the print head. Now that you have a direct drive extruder, you should see improved performance on prints with frequent retractions. You’ll also have better results printing with flexible filament, such as TPU. Enjoy your upgraded 3D printer! First, let’s talk about the hotend part. In the case of the Sprite Pro Extruder, the heat break is made from titanium and it’s all metal. The heatsink is made from aluminum and it’s cooled by the tiny radial fan on the side. Honestly, this design is pretty smart and I found that it works quite well during operation. Thermal shots are available below, to also judge the thermal efficiency of this solution.The toothed gear is held in place by two small grub screws, which can become loose over time, leading to the gear falling to the bottom of the shaft and losing grip on the filament. The Sprite extruder is Creality’s first direct drive extruder design, and has been featured on a number of printers starting in 2021, including the CR-10 Smart Pro and the Ender 3 S1 series. The Sprite extruder is compact and small, with a 25mm motor to reduce the total weight of the print head. It is a bit heavier than a Bowden extruder, and most of Creality’s printers with the Sprite extruder include a second Z lead screw to ensure the increased weight is well-supported. The metal dual-gear upgrade requires setting the E-steps due to the smaller radius of the toothed gear. Easier to upgrade and maintain, since the hot end and extruder can be modified independently and use simpler designs. Next, you’ll need to add spacers to the hot end mount so that it is aligned with the extruder. Remove the two screws holding the hot end to detach it from the printer.

Sprite Extruder Pro 300℃ High Temperature Printing | Full

There is no reason to replace the whole Sprite extruder with the Pro version if you only want to improve thermal performance and eliminate maintenance from time to time, to replace the PTFE tube. Does require a bit of tweaking of the printer configuration to get Z offset and Steps/mm correctly but there's plenty of videos on youtube. Hardware wise its a fairly straight foward install. The only options for an Ender 3V2 is with or with and CR touch, but NOTHING for a Sprite Hot end, and this is where it starts to go wrong. The setup progresses and allows me to manually set the Z Offset and then Tram the bed at the 4 corners, all good up to here. BUT the next screen is ABL and after homing the printhead moves OUTSIDE the print bed (at the front) due to the difference between the standard Ender 3V2 Hotend and location of the CR Touch and the Sprite Pro Hotend and it’s location to the CR touch. The Print head that move down and “hits” the bed freezing the setup process.The extruder can be applied with both direct drive and bowden filament feeding to meet the printing needs of both users. In addition to "normal" filaments such as PLA or PET-G, special materials such as flexible filaments can also be printed without any problems. As you can see, the corners are much better defined, the top layers are cleaner and the print time was shorter. Basically, yes it is compatible with any board but this extruder is designed for the Ender 3 S1 only and is difficult to install on other printers. instead I would recommend the Sprite Extruder Pro which comes with a cable and mount which is suitable for Ender 3-style printers. Please note, it comes with standard Creality connections (JST-XH) so if you're board uses other ones you may have to change them. The last thing you need to know is that in Jyers the Z homing is done off the corner, contrasted with the official Creality firmware. Therefore, you need to mind the header of the Gcode created by Cura (or your slicer). Change the 'home all axes' setting to just home the X and Y axis (so you start from the corner. Upgrading Ender 3 S1 Extruder to Sprite Extruder Pro. It's a drop in upgrade to Ender 3 S1 and CR 10 Smart Pro.

How to Install Klipper on Creality Ender 3 S1: Config and Setup

The articles also cover the installation of KIAUH which is a handy tool to have when running Klipper. Prepare and install Klipper firmware for Ender 3 S1 Configure Klipper for Ender 3 S1I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to your printer by following this guide. You are doing this on your own responsibility. This design is generally effective, however there are a number of issues you can encounter after prolonged use:

Sprite Extruder - 3DJake International Creality Sprite Extruder - 3DJake International

I have this same issue but I believe its because mine is a STM32F401 chip. I don’t know how to make KIAUH detect USB ID I don’t see that option there. I can do ls /dev/serial/by-id/* and it lists the singluar connection. However I get the MCU unable to connect error. Looked in the config and MCU is set to use the single USB ID connection. Any insights here? (I’ve tried both USB and Serial type connections). Also one thing to note when chosseing the F401 chips the only options are 16bit (HID) or 32bit boot loaders. You are wasting money if you can’t do some Marlin programming, otherwise it’s best features are unusable In the pictures below, you can see the print quality you can expect after upgrading your Ender 3 S1 to Klipper. The first calibration cube was printed with 50mm/s, during my review. The second calibration cube was printed at 100mm/s with the Klipper config shared in this article.Klipperis an open-source firmware for your 3D printer that combines the power of a Raspberry Piand your printer mainboard for better printer control. By doing this, you are able to run your printer at higher speeds with better precision and control. Why Install Klipper on Creality Ender 3 S1? Creality Ender 3, Creality Ender 3 Pro, Creality Ender 3 V2, Creality Ender 3 Max, Creality CR-10 Smart Pro, Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro Then i have set this to 97% and tried from 80%-100% everthing in 2% steps with Top Surface Solid Fill Flowrate. Some minor effects can be seen but all not good. Then i have done again tests with Top Solid Fill Extrusion width Percentage. Same here. Creality designed the extruder so that it collides with the right side of your x-axis roller support when you home the printer. You will need to reverse and shorten the upper right roller bolt on the Sprite x-axis mount or program a little less x-axis size in Marlin. I chose the programming option and made my x-axis 230mm instead of the standard 235mm. I have found I could spare the 5mm.